Chainplate Support Epoxied to Hulls

The first support hardwood is epoxied on.
Starboard side.

Port side.

My work area - at least half of it. I'm using a chunk of core flute as a spill-catcher.

Top tiller support.

The chainplate epoxy job wasn't perfect. The next morning I visited the boat to clean up the epoxy and I reckon the bottom 2/3 are solidly bonded to the hull (correct ooze) but there are probably a few little voids at the top 1/3.

I used the two-part process where the pieces are coated with un-thickened epoxy then then left a little while and the thickened then used. Because I'm using such a slow hardener (the BoteCote non-yellowing one) the unthickened didn't really tack-off. The thicker stuff slumped a bit. I'm quite sure I couldn't move it with a Jemmy bar, so I'm not too worried.

So next stage (when our mini-heatwave subsides in a day or so) is fabricate the weird hardwood wedge shapes between the bit I just glued on and the stainless steel. Weird because the two sides are different.

Stronger Tiller Pivot

The tiller pivot on Kismet is rather weak. The only pivot is a rudder pintle bracket with an 8mm bolt going through the tiller then the bracket. The top of the bolt is unsupported.

On William's (son) say so I have made a timber fitting the same shape as the lower one. This will be epoxied to the transom 47mm above the original (lower) one. We will then fit another rudder pintle on the new piece of timber (after painting etc.) - then use a longer bolt.

In order to ensure I glue it on in the correct place I used a few pieces of scrap wood to get the alignment right. As usual the existing support timber ISN'T ON STRAIGHT. So I've lifted the right hand side of the new piece about 2mm as a fudge. Not enough to notice that it's not parallel to the other one, and not enough to notice that it's not parallel with the top of the transom (just don't look too hard).

The paintbrush handle is the right size to wedge the new support onto the transom when I epoxy it.

I've put the pivot bolt back in temporarily to support my "paintbrush clamp".

I've since replaced the piece of masking tape I tore while sanding back the paint.

These pictures will help remind me how I am going to clamp it - hopefully when I do the chainplate timber tomorrow.

This is how I left it today.

Tiller pivots

The SS 316 Ear expanders (similar to those I used on the Vogue) are my pivots for the tiller.
These are really inexpensive on eBay and the 8mm have a perfect 1/4" internal diameter. The 10mm have about an 8.5mm internal which is a tad sloppy but better than what would happen if I just drilled an 8mm hole in the PVC pipe. I had to buy lots of different sizes to find this out as the ear expander jewelry business isn't terribly accurate on dimensions.

Quick and dirty Tiller

This will give us steering. It's made of 33mm OD PVC pressure pipe. It's helpful that it can be heat bent too!

I've kept all dimensions so I can make a more permanent one when I have time.

We are planning on a motor only launch on Thursday 5th April. Off to the boating shop this afternoon to do the final purchases for safety and legality (flares, fenders, boat hook etc.).